What are the challenges to making a surfboard out of a plank of wood?
There are certain things you can do to the board to make it better. I noticed that if I change the pitch of the rail, it affects the way the board turns, or how big the board is determines how good it paddles. There is a little play. Overall, big, small, whatevers, the board rides the same on the wave. To me, itβs more of the person. You have to put your energy into it in order to understand it. You got to try it and keep trying it. Itβs always the surfer, not the board. You have to change to make it work wherever you use it.
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Sometimes, certain surfboards are made for certain waves, depending on the wood. You have your heavier woods, which are more difficult to surf, and then you have lighter woods for lighter boards. Riding theΒ kikoβoΒ at Bayfront was epic. The board matched the wave. They are so fast you need a longer wave to ride those boards. You could still surf them at Honoliβi, but you wouldnβt get that full ride and be able to feel the full energy of the wave.
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What type of wood do you usually work with?
Primarily I work with Paulownia. Itβs easy to carve and shape out. Itβs super light and naturally, it doesnβt absorb salt water. In theΒ alaia, you want it to be a lighter board, you donβt want it to be heavy. Itβs so fast already being flat; itβs easier to control when itβs lighter. TheΒ koaΒ boards are hard to control because they are so heavy and long.Β Β
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Are traditional Hawaiian surfboards something that anyone can jump on and get the hang of?
In anything you do in the ocean, you have to know the ocean. You have to know what it does, the currents, the energy. You have to know all that before you go out and into it, no matter if youβre surfing, body surfing, or riding anΒ alaia. You have to be safe.
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I learned that from my grandfather. He taught me everything about the ocean. He raised me on the ocean and taught me how to surf, how to fish, how to dive, how to live. It was hands-on. We spent every weekend, any time we had that he wasnβt working. We would go to the ocean for food, for family, especially theΒ kupuna. Weβd get fish for them,Β wana,Β opihi. He always taught us to respect the ocean. You got to know the right time, the right place, and to always give. You donβt take from the ocean and sell, you take what you need and if you get extra, you give.
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Hawaiian lifeguarding is a proud tradition and tight-knit community, the highest standard to which guards in other coastal communities aspire. OluKai is humbled to play a significant role in nurturing that tradition. For each pair of the Hawaiian Lifeguard Collection, a portion of the proceeds directly supports Hawaiiβs Junior Lifeguard Program, inspiring and training the next generation of Kalepas and Aikaus. βNo matter what anyone says, if you put your mind to it, you can do it,β Kalepa tell these Junior Guards. βI know itβs true because I did it. Stay focused, stay healthy, stay fit, and keep your integrity. Those are things that we need to build, not just lifeguards but great leaders in the community.βΒ
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Do your grandfather's lessons about the ocean carry over to the workshop?
I take what he taught me, and then I use my ownΒ manaβo. Itβs trial and error.
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What's it like to work with koa wood?
TheΒ koaΒ is native, and itβs beautiful and hard to get. Any time I getΒ koaΒ is more exciting. Paulownia is nice, but having the connection ofΒ koa, being from theΒ βΔinaΒ at home, and being able to make it into somethingβputting yourΒ manaΒ into it and making it functional, functional art, that feels good. I always like to know where the wood came from, how it was brought to be. I donβt believe in cutting down a tree to make stuff out of it. When I think ofΒ koa, I think ofΒ kupuna. Theyβre old. Theyβre one of the first things on this island. It has a spirit. Working with theΒ koa, you can feel itβhard to explain.