“That’s what it is, a royal sport for the natural kings of earth,” wrote Jack London in a 1907 in a magazine article about the newfound sport of surfing. His famous line was inspired by riding the waves of Waikīkī and basking in its sun-soaked waters.
While surfing was new to the Western world at the time, it had long been a cornerstone of Hawaiian culture—practiced by both commoners and royalty. Waikīkī, with its gentle rolling waves and consistent offshore breezes, was one of ancient Hawai‘i’s most beloved surf zones, with waves ridden centuries before Western contact.
Today, Waikīkī is widely considered the world’s premier destination for longboarding. From eager beginners to seasoned professionals, surfers of all levels find their place here. The coastline, stretching from Diamond Head to Ala Moana, boasts more than 20 named surf breaks. It’s not only the birthplace of modern surfing, but also a living expression of a centuries-long lineage of watermen and waterwomen.
In pre-contact Hawai‘i, surfboards were hand-carved from native woods, with their size and shape reflecting the surfer’s status. Royalty rode massive 16-foot, 100-pound olo made from wiliwili, while commoners used 10-foot alaia carved from koa. These traditional boards had no fins, emphasizing noseriding and graceful movement on long, rolling waves—something Waikīkī provided in abundance.
With the opening of the Moana Hotel in 1901, tourism in Waikīkī began to grow, and by the 1950s, Beach Boys—local Waikīkī watermen—were earning a living teaching visitors how to surf and paddle outrigger canoes. These playful yet skilled surfers laid the foundation for the Beach Boy culture that continues to shape Hawai‘i’s longboarding legacy.
By the 1970s, Waikīkī had become the epicenter of Hawaiian surf talent. Iconic names like Rabbit Kekai, George Downing, Paul Strauch, Fred Hemmings, Barry Kanaiaupuni, and Buttons Kaluhiokalani were innovating new styles and equipment, turning Waikīkī into a lab for modern longboarding.
“There’s no more historic place in the world for surfing than right here in Waikīkī,” says local professional Kaniela Stewart. “My family has been teaching people to surf, sail, and have fun here for generations. This place is my home; it’s shaped me and so many others amazing surfers. There’s just nothing else in surfing quite like it.”
From the peeling lefts at Publics to the righthanders at Populars, better known as Pops, Waikīkī offers a full range of waves. At the center are two of its most iconic spots: Canoes and Queen’s.
Canoes, named for the outrigger canoes once steered through the lineup, is perfect for beginners. With its soft, rolling waves, it’s where many surfers learn to pop up for the first time or take their first steps to the nose. Queen’s, on the other hand, is a fast, peeling right with a barreling inside section. It sits in front of the former beach home of Queen Lili‘uokalani, giving the break its royal name.
“There’s something in the air and the water here—you can feel the history when you paddle out,” says Kelis Kaleopa‘a. “We’re riding the same waves our ancestors did, and that connection really makes me feel something special.”
Today, Queen’s is home to a tight-knit crew of longboarders: Keani Canullo, Kani Stewart, the aforementioned Kelis Kaleopa‘a, Toots, Rocco Olmstead, Nique Miller, two-time world champion Kelia Moniz, and three-time world champion Kai Sallas. These natural kings and queens of the ocean are honoring the past while creating their own future on the waves of Waikīkī.
“Every time I paddle out, I’m reminded of just how special Waikīkī is. It’s a place to come together to have fun. It’s an amazing wave, sure, but it’s also so much more. It’s home.”
